Hi
from Clare, 6th
September 2016
LOOK
OUT
We
spent a few days anchored off the main township of Rotoava in North
Fakarava. After re-provisioning and some much needed internet
access, we rented a bicycle each to tour some of the township. I was
a bit wobbly, as I haven't ridden a bicycle for a number of years.
Apart from running over a few plants and having difficulty turning
corners and even straying off the road at times, I thought I did
rather well, but it helps not having high expectations.
 |
| Look out! |
We
peddled out to the old lighthouse and then on to the airport.
Fortunately the road was straight and flat, so not too challenging
and thankfully we had a lovely sea breeze to keep us cool. Slow
travel is a great way to see how the locals live. The village houses
are open and airy with very few doors or windows and usually shaded
by coconut palms. Most of the local ladies wear flowers in their
hair and the pace is definitely very relaxed. It is not unusual to
see people in the heat of the day having a snooze under some leafy
shade. When we arrived at the airport a plane was due that day. To
the tune of swaying Polynesian music the open air reception area was
being hosed down and the counters decorated with highly perfumed
tropical flowers to welcome new arrivals. A very nice local touch
which accurately depicts the flavour and pace of this beautiful
atoll.
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| Rotoava Village, Fakarava |
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| Old unfinished Lighthouse |
OUR
FINAL DAYS
We
sailed back to our favourite anchorage Hirifa at the south east
corner of the atoll. As you can see by the photo it is picture
postcard perfect. It never ceases to calm you and most days we would
stroll along this peaceful beach. We could also cut across the atoll
and walk the coral beach on the outer reef. In contrast this is
totally wild with the wind in your face, the sea crashing on the reef
and hundreds of years of broken coral which in places is metres deep.
It was hard to walk on the uneven rubbly coral beach but the
attraction for me is finding the prettiest shells I have seen. As
you can see by the photo they are really shiny and although I have
never before collected shells, I couldn't resist picking them up.
The big large white puffy things in the other photo we picked up on
the beach in Raroia. They are very fragile and would break if
dropped. I am not sure what there are, we have had a few suggestions
but we are yet to find a published photo of one for confirmation;
just another treasure I couldn't resist.
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| Beach at Hirifa |
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| Garden planted in coral rubble |
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| Shells collected |
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| Mystery carcases |
So
we sat in paradise enjoying the company of our American friends Dave
and Kim on 'Maluhia' and new friends Paul and Jen on 'Serenity' until
conditions were right to head out. We left the peace of Fakarava
for a two day sail to Tahiti with a gentle 12 knot breeze on our beam
and a flat sea. This stayed with us for one and a half days which
was perfect. After that we had 20-25 knits and bouncy conditions for
the final night. We were very tired and glad to sail into Tahiti on
Tuesday 30th
August and settle down in very calm water by the Tahiti Yacht Club.
Our Aussie friends Roger and Sasha on 'Ednbal' had been anchored
there for some time so when we arrived at 6 am they invited us over
for breakfast. They then jokingly complained on our Radio Net that
we ate all their merge supplies – Oh how we have missed the Aussie
sense of humour. Other long standing friends Geoff and Katie on
'Mezzaluna' were there and 'Maluhia' arrived the same time as us and
so we had quite a gathering.
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| View from Tahiti Yacht Club anchorage |
TAHITI
- THE NEW WORLD
We
have mountains and greenery all around us to feast our eyes on,
something we haven't seen since the Marquesas. The world is an
active place now with Optimist dinghies, Hobiecats and keel boat
class racing in the bay. There's a Yacht Club with restaurants,
laundry and local shops and supermarkets. After being in the
Tuamotus for eleven weeks I was starting to dream about supermarket
trolleys and some variety on our dinner plate. So now we are
enjoying real treats like strawberries, brie cheese, smoked salmon
and all the yummy goodies we take for granted when at home. I have
also hammered the laundry, as this is the first 'do it yourself'
laundry we have encountered since we left Panama eighteen months ago.
There is only one washer and dryer and so I was there for most of
the day. One other cruiser appeared with a bag of laundry but when
he saw all my washing he just rolled his eyes, whistled and walked
out – good call.
TIME
TO BUY
We
have been into the city and picked up our Long Term Visa's and also a
document that allows us, as a boat in transit, tax free fuel. We
purchased diesel today for $A1 a litre which is very inexpensive. We
have also been to the Ship Chandler and ACE Hardware so Andrew could
have a little retail therapy too.
 |
| Sunset over Moorea from Taina Marina anchorage |
Yesterday
we moved the boat to the anchorage by Taina Marina. The Ship
Chandler here has very competitive prices and so Andrew has purchased
a new anchor chain. Our old anchor chain suffered badly sitting in
Taiohae Bay in the Marquesas for nine months while we were at home
last. It is rusty and pitted and splatters black muck all over us
when raising the anchor. We took the boat into the Marina this
morning and swapped the chain over, see photo. We also took the
opportunity to hose the boat down which was a wonderful bonus. We
also bought a number on new ropes as some on the boat are the
originals and damaged after eleven years of service.
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| New chain coming aboard |
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| Replacing the furling line |
SO
WHAT'S NEXT
Our
next exciting adventure is the arrival of our Australian friends
Patrick and Cheryl who fly into Tahiti on the 12th
of this month for a few weeks. We are hoping to cover the Leeward
Islands stopping at Moorea, Huahine, Raiatea, Tahaa and Bora Bora.
We are looking forward to this, it will be fun.
love Candy xx
