Hi
from Clare, Wednesday
10th
August 2016
HOW
IT SHOULD BE
We
arrived in the atoll of Fakarava two weeks ago after a very smooth
overnight downwind sail from Makemo. So smooth in fact that we even
watched a DVD in the cockpit en route, a definite first for us.
Fakarava
is thirty miles long and we haven't seen all of it yet. We entered
the atoll through the south pass and fortunately for us one of our
radio net buddies was in the pass in his dinghy waiting to do a drift
snorkel. He gave us accurate information on the current strength and
direction which took all the stress out of transiting the narrow and
shallow pass
A
GREAT PASS
The
south pass has two dive shops with guest accommodation and a small
bar/restaurant and a pizza place. There are mooring balls for the
yachts if you want to stay. Drift snorkelling and diving in the pass
with many sharks, eagle rays, large Napoleon wrasse, tropical fish
and hard coral is the attraction. The method is to start in slack
water and then drift into the lagoon with the incoming tide. We have
enjoyed six drift snorkels hanging on to our dinghy. By the end,
when the tide is fully flowing, we are fairly flying, it's great fun.
The sharks, which are mostly black tip reef sharks, either ignore us
or swim away. For us the fish life is fascinating, however the
plentiful hard coral lacks the colour and variation found with soft
corals.
 |
| South Pass Village Resort |
 |
| Underwater photo in the Pass |
 |
| Bures at the pass resort |
BUSY
DOING NOTHING
June,
July and August are said to be the windy months in the Tuamotu so we
seek out flat calm water and peaceful conditions behind a moto.
However there is a catch, once having found these ideal conditions it
is hard to leave. So after eleven years of being on the move we are
now learning the joys of staying put for weeks on end. It's amazing
how quickly the day passes when doing nothing. The good thing is we
have plenty of company as there are six boats here that participate
in the daily Polynesian Magellan Net and so doing nothing is very
social.
 |
| PolyMagNet buddies aboard Maluhir in Hirifa |
 |
| Andrew and Clare at Dinner at Lisas, Hirifa |
Most
of our time in Fakarava has been spent in the south east corner at
the small settlement of Hirifa. It is picture post card perfect with
sparkling aqua water, sandy beaches, coconut palms, shady trees and
glorious sunsets. It is a favourite spot for kite surfers because
they can take off from the sand spits where there is wave protection
from the reef and yet plenty of wind to fill their kites. So we
spend our days of doing nothing watching the kite surfers, walking
the beaches, collecting a few shells, swimming and relaxing. We lit a
fire on the beach one night and eight of us enjoyed a BBQ and some
star gazing under a beautiful clear sky.
 |
| Beach and restaurant at Hirifa |
 |
| Lemon shark teeth caught a Hirifa |
There
is a family restaurant here run by a large Polynesian lady, Liza who
speaks good English and gives welcoming bear hugs that just about
take your breath away. The restaurant is only opened when Lisa has
supplies and has enough takers to make the night financially worth
while. Fifteen cruisers from the anchorage had dinner a few nights
back. Most of us not only had out breath taken away but also received
Liza's head cold which has kept us all lying low for a few days.
TIME
TO MOVE
Yesterday
we departed Hirifa and had a good fifteen mile downwind sail to the
north east side of the atol to the small settlement of Pakokota. The
main attraction here is the Internet so as I am typing this I am
hoping to send you some photos. There is a small Yacht Services
business here and tomorrow he is driving us to the main town of
Rotoava which is ten miles north of here. For a small charge he will
take us to the supermarket, bakery and other shop, whatever that
encompasses. We have been warned that that our mode of transport is
old and we will be able to see the road through the corroded floor of
the vehicle. I happens to be a Isuzu Trooper (Holden Jackaroo) just
like ours at home but much rustier. If we are lucky enough to get
some fruit and veg and I don't loose anything through the floor on
the way back, I will be happy.
SO
WHAT'S NEXT
We
will stay here in Pakokota for a few days and download our emails and
hopefully enjoy the internet connection. By then the wind will pick
up and so we will return to the safe haven of Hirifa. We think we
will be in Fakarava for another two weeks before rejoining
civilisation in Tahiti.
Until
then stay safe and have fun.
Love
Candy xx
