4-2022 Espiritu Santo Island, Vanuatu

 

Hi from Clare,      4-2022 Espiritu Santo Island Vanuatu             29^th July 2022

 

So our next stop was the Blue Holes at Peterson Bay north of Santo's main town of Luganville. It certainly is a peaceful spot and it has two fresh water rivers to explore by way of dinghy, the Forest River and Nalaiafu River.

 

Entrance to Forest River

OUR RIVER RUN

Last time we were here in 2019 the village community at the mouth of the river was charging $5 to travel up the river by dinghy. However the 2022 tourist season is having a slow start after Covid shut down and there was no mention of a charge. We travelled up both the Forest and Nalaiafu Rivers. The rivers are peaceful and the bird life plentiful. Any stress you might be carrying just dissolves as you travel up the river, one with nature. It really is a magical place.

These blue holes are found in several places in Vanuatu. I think they are formed when a fresh water spring is filtered through limestone and the blue cast to it is from the dissolved calcium carbonate. It was a grey overcast day and so this time we did not go for a swim, however it was still nice just sitting in the river enjoying the quiet.

 

The Blue Hole on Nalaiafu River 

Unfortunately the forest is partly choked by a vine which was introduced during WW2 from south west of the United States. It was introduced to camouflage gun emplacements and war equipment should the Japanese every make it to Vanuatu. We think the vines would have been a very effective camouflage, but sadly, years later they are just choking the forest.

 Oh the vines!

 

At times the weed was almost covering the entire river and we had to pick our way through and clear weed from the dinghy's propeller.

 Weed on River

PORT OLRY

We stopped at Port Olry which is at the northern end of Espiritu Santo. The weather was very calm and so we had to motor the 25 miles to this beautiful bay.

Anchored at Port Olry

 

Warm, sunny and stunningly beautiful, we spent four days exploring this area and walking the beaches There is a small village close by with houses, a school and a few shops.

Typical Village House

The island we anchored off had a fresh water lake and so we had a swim in that too.

 

Fresh Water Lake

 

Our time in Port Olry was relaxing and very pleasant. For us, it is definitely one of the best spots in Espiritu Santo.

 

Yesterday we sailed back to Luganville in light wind. We re provisioned and stayed in the harbour off the township in preparation for leaving this morning. Last night, the wind dropped out and the current put us side on to the swell, so Eye Candy rolled all night, I didn't sleep well. This morning the weather was very unsettled and so we changed our plans and went back to our calm anchorage around the headland from Luganville. It is very still now and we have two Dugongs and a turtle swimming around the boat. So all is not lost

 Not looking so good today

SO WHAT'S NEXT

As soon as the weather suits, we will continue south to Port Vila. But for now we will just chill. So until next time stay safe and our love to all.

 

Candy xx

 

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3-2022 Port Stanley Vanuatu

Hi from Clare         3-2022 Port Stanley,             Vanuatu 21^st July 2022

True to forecast, it was a very windy weekend at Port Stanley on the island of Malakula in Vanuatu. We were tucked up behind the mangroves in calm water, contemplating a very wet trip in our rubber dinghy to visit our friends, Karl and family, in the nearby village. However, Karl came to Eye Candy with his wife Nora and three daughters in their fibreglass boat. They were on their way to the community garden and said they would pick us up in an hour and take us to their home. Nora had prepared a traditional Lap Lap meal and we were invited to dine with the family at 2pm.

 

Karl and Nora's Home

A VILLAGE EXPERIENCE

Karl and Nora's house was just lovely and well established. They have done a lot of work since Andrew helped Karl install wires for 12volt electric light three years ago. The bottom part of the walls are made of concrete blocks. On top of that, the walls are made of woven bamboo and a roof made of second hand roofing iron. The floor is lino on concrete and the bamboo walls inside are covered with colourful material.

                                                         The Loungeroom

The house has two bedrooms and a lounge room and a family area on the porch. There is a separate kitchen off the porch and a toilet and bathroom currently under construction out the back. Nora has made a very nice garden with flowering plants and vegetables in abundance.

The Main Bedroom (1 metre below ground level)

TRADITIONAL LAP LAP

We sat on the floor in the porch area for lunch. Firstly we washed our hands and were given a clean towel each. There were bowls of water laid out for washing whilst eating the traditionally way, with our fingers. Lap Lap is made from Taro (root vegetable) banana and fish. It is cooked in banana leaves on hot stones for 2 hours. When opened up, fresh coconut milk is liberally sprinkled over the food and small bowls of coconut milk available for dipping. Their eldest daughter said Grace before we ate. Lunch was delicious and we really enjoyed the village experience.

 

Lap Lap Lunch

WONDERFUL PEOPLE

The village people are just lovely, they are open, friendly, kind, generous uncomplicated people. They don't have much and they don't want much. Karl works five days a week in the Copra shed as a mechanic's assistant. He earns $20 a day which seems very little to us. Nora said they are mostly self sufficient and buy very little from the supermarket, usually just rice, sugar and washing powder. We guess Karl's biggest expense would be fuel for his boat.

Bananas from Karl's Garden

HOW CAN WE HELP?

We donated three lengths of rope no longer needed on our boat. Last time we travelled up this island chain we were often asked for spare rope. Used often to tie a roof down in strong wind or secure some livestock. I gave Nora a pair of polarised sun glasses, and we bought a bottle of Kiwi and Banana Syrup to lunch as a special treat for the girls.

 

On the way back to Eye Candy, Karl trawled a fishing line from his boat and caught a small Trevally fish. Never miss an opportunity and it paid off. We had a wonderful time and the memory of this experience will stay with us forever.

 

ALWAYS A THRILL

Tuesday we had a gentle sail, 40 miles on a beam reach in 15 knots of wind, to Luganville on the island of Espiritu Santo. This is the second biggest town in Vanauta after Port Vila. It is very busy and seems to have better hardware shops and you can buy most things here. We caught a Wahoo on passage which is one of our favourite fish. Three kilos of thick white succulent fillets, what more could we hope for, just wonderful.

Our Wahoo

SO WHAT'S NEXT

Today we are anchored in calm water around the corner from Luganvile Harbour, which is a bit bouncy. It is a maintenance day and I have been busy washing sheets, towels and clothes, not that we wear much in 29 degrees temperature. Before leaving this area we will visit the Blue Holes, these are fresh water swimming holes, but more about that next time.

 

Until then stay safe and our love to all.

Candy xx .

 

 

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