9-2022 Sailing New Caledonia

 

Hi from Clare,  9^th October 2022

We are thoroughly enjoying the sailing ground around Nouméa.

Generally speaking the wind drops out at night and picks up again mid morning. So we soon learnt how to use the weather pattern to get us to and from the many Islots within the lagoon. Once behind the Islot we get protection from the wind and the sea is flat because the lagoon is surrounded by reef. It’s just an easy place to sail and we have had some fabulous trips

Because of Andrew’s leg injury, we have needed to return to Nouméa twice a week for Doctor’s visits. We have made the most of our limited freedom by visiting nearly all the nearby Ilots. We have been in company with Aussie mates Liam and Annie on ‘Gone with the Wind’.

SOME OF THE HIGHLIGHTS

We spent a few days on Mbe Kowen Islot, what a beautiful quiet spot anchored in about 10 meters of clear water. We swam in the shallows and watched the kite surfers just out from the Islot. The daily routine was a few chores on board, walks on the beach, relaxation and drinks on shore at sunset.

MBE Kowen – Eye Candy 3^rd from the right

We sailed out to Isl Laregnere to join NZ friends Ted and Adrian on ‘Otama’ who commenced their passage to Australia the following morning. We had drinks on the beach and wished them fair winds. After a seven day trip, they are now relaxing in Gladstone.

Our Gathering – Andrew, Ted & Adrienne, Liam & Annie

BETTER NEWS

Back to the Doctor on 30^th September. He is happy with Andrew’s progress, although we would like it to be much faster. He gave me new instructions for dressing the wound and set us free for two weeks – thanks goodness.

COMPLETELY DIFFERENT SCENERY

So ‘Eye Candy’ and ‘Gone with the Wind’ sailed forty miles back to Prony Bay at the south end of New Caledonia. There is lots to explore here and some interesting characters to meet. We anchored in Carenage Bay which is a hurricane hole as there are hills all around, glassy water and gorgeous scenery.

View of Prony Bay – Eye Candy anchored to the right of the Bay

There are many bush walking tracks, fresh water rivers, cascades and a hot springs plunge pool.

Liam and Clare enjoying the warm pool

On one of our walks we met Gil a Frenchman who has leased some land in a remote area by the river for the last thirty years. He is a keen gardener and over the years he has planted trees and shrubs around his space. Nine years ago he moved in permanently. His lease is reviewed annually and if not renewed, Gil has two weeks to vacate and remove everything.

Gil and his Dog

This would be quite a feat as Gil has built a shack, a shed, a chicken house and pen. He also has a water tank with fresh water coming from the hill, a solar panel array, an outdoor area and Pizza oven, a car and a small tractor. He met us dressed in a sarong only and was quite a character. He is passionate about his country. When explaining the history he said it had been raped three times for wood, chrome and now nickel.

Gil’s shack in the windeness

PRONY TOWN

Old Prony town is quite interesting as in the last century it was a convict settlement. There is an old goal and some pretty graphic pictures and tales of punishment for misbehaving convicts. The settlement was there to log the timber. Today this pretty town is a base for a kayaking business and bush walking adventures.

One of the punishments – looks awful

OFF TO ANOTHER ISLAND

Our boats on the moorings

The gathering of Aussie’s and NZ’s cruisers

ON OUR WAY BACK TO NOUMÉA

We left Prony Bay Saturday and sailed with ‘Gone with the Wind’ back through the Woodin Passage towards Noumea. This is a narrow passage with a current running in and out with the tides. It’s important to get the timing right as wind against tide would not be pleasant. This is the fifth time we have sailed through here. The passage is five miles long in the narrow section. We whistled through there with a part jib only and 3,8 knots of current with us. It was like a sleigh ride, woo hoo!

HOW GOOD IS THIS

We met Christian yesterday, Andrew has been talking to him on a Radio Net for a few months and previously in 2019. He has just arrived in New Caledonia after sailing his yacht from New Zealand via Lord Howe Is. Christian in ninety years old, a keen spear fisherman and he is now our inspiration. He said “no use sitting at home on the couch complaining about aches and pains’ Wow!

WE ARE HERE NOW

View from Ouen Island – Eye Candy on the left

We are now anchored at the Island of Ouen some twenty miles from Nouméa. A lovely beach with an uninhabited resort, only a caretaker present. The weather is windy but we are OK here.

This place is so relaxing Andrew fell asleep on the beach.

We need to be back in Noumea on Wednesday for - you guessed it, another Dr’s appointment. We are also attending an information session on Thursday afternoon about checking in to Australia and importing the boat. After that we will be seriously looking for a weather window to cross to Australia. The trip should take us about six days, we will keep you informed of our departure date.

So until then stay safe and our love to all.

Candy xx

8-2022 Exploring New Caledonia

 

 

Hi from Clare,    8-2022 Exploring New Caledonia   16^th Sept. 2022

 

WHAT HAVE WE BEEN DOING?

We spent two weeks in Port Moselle Marina in Noumea, New Caledonia. We did not anticipate the damage to Andrew's leg, after his fishing mishap, would take so long to mend.  We thought when the final stitches came out on 2^nd September we would be free to leave.  But no, more trips to the Doctor until eventually I was taught how to treat and dress the wound and given enough dressings to last till next Monday 19^th September.  At this point we will return to the Doctor for appraisal.  In the meantime Andrew has to stay out of the water, which he is finding rather frustrating.

 

Andrew's leg, today

OUT AND ABOUT IN NOUMÉA

We hired a car, along with our Aussie mates Liam and Annie, and drove around Noumea calling in, of course, to all the Ship Chandlers and the large Carefour Supermarket for supplies.  The choice of things to buy is a massive step up from Vanuatu.  Noumea is a modern French City with lovely beach front apartments, restaurants, shops and with manicured parks and walkways.  We also noticed a vast difference between the Kanaks in Noumea and the N-Vans of Port Vila. The Kanaks in Noumea are less than half the population in a French protectorate where as the N-Vans in Vanuatu are the majority of the population in their own republic.

 Noumea's beach front

 

ESCAPE TO FREEDOM

We left the Marina on 9^th September and made our way down to Prony Bay which is about forty miles away on the southern end of New Caledonia. It was absolutely wonderful to be out on the water again enjoying the sunshine, fresh air and the tranquillity.  We were in company with Liam and Annie on Gone with the Wind.  Our destination was L'ile Des Pins which is a further forty miles south of Prony Bay and generally a sail into the wind.  We stayed one night in Prony Bay and took off early the following morning and motored in glass calm water to L'ile Des Pins. Motoring is not our preferred option but it is better than bashing into head winds.  We were glad to take this opportunity for a quiet trip.

Kuto Bay, L'ile Des Pins

 

BEAUTIFUL L'ILE DES PINS

The L'ile Des Pins is a very pretty island with plenty of Pine trees, as you might guess by the name.  We anchored in flat water in Kuto Bay and enjoyed four terrific days exploring the island.  Once again we hired a car and circumnavigated the island taking in the fresh market, the church, the 19^th century jail and convict cemetery, a wood carving shop and a very nice grotto.

The Church

The jail was fairly overgrown but it struck us that like Tasmania, this island would have been a perfect destination for a jail. Beautiful and all as it is, the island is a long way from anywhere and no chance of escape.

 The 19^th Century Jail

 

In the wood work shop the local men were busy carving totem poles with a hammer and chisel, These are proudly displayed at the resorts and businesses throughout the island.

 A local man at work

 The Kanaks on L'ile Des Pins are more friendly and relaxed than their city counterparts. French is their second language so it is a little difficult for us to have a conversation.  However it is interesting how much we seem to get across, then again we could be kidding ourselves :).

One of many totem poles

We had lunch at one of the resorts and caught up with emails etc.  We failed miserably trying to get across that we wanted a flat white coffee. We were served a short black, then a long black and then eventually a half warm flat white.  Sugar would have been nice, but..

 Lunch by the pool

 

The small market was a hoot, the sellers were focused on chattering and having a social day out.  Nobody was manning the store where we were trying to purchase some greens.  A great delay occurred whilst some hailing and a search for the store keeper ensued. Eventually she came scurrying out from the toilet, problem solved.

 

The highlight of the trip was the grotto. Deep in the tropical forest amongst a profusion of lush plants.  Many of these plants growing wild are only considered as indoor plants in Australia.  The grotto itself is a large cave with a statue of Mary, The Mother of God set up high.

 The Grotto

 

A truly lovely setting with stalactites in abundance and crystal clear water bubbling over rocks and a pebbly river bed.  Such a tranquil spot and it is always a treat to see lush greenery when sailing for months on blue oceans.

 A little river by the Grotto

 

CHAMPAGNE SAILING

We left L'ile Des Pins yesterday and had a great beam reach sail for 38 miles in 12 knots of breeze to Islet Ua. On the way we caught a large Mahi Mahi, this time without incident thank goodness. We have put away seven meals from this beauty. Good thing because our protein supply was down to 250 grams of mince beef.

Our Mahi Mahi

 

Islet Ua is a very small island with stunning scenery. Lovely thick white sand and clear water. We enjoyed drinks on the beach last night with Liam and Annie and watched the sun set, totally at peace with the world.

Islet Ua by day

 

Islet Ua at sunset

 

SO WHAT'S NEXT

We plan to have drinks on the beach again tonight,  We will go in early enough to walk around the islet at low tide.  We believe there is a big eagle's nest around the other side, so we will check that out.

 

Tomorrow we will continue on our journey back to Noumea for Andrew's next Doctor's appointment.  We are having a wonderful time and Noumea is a beautiful island. So until next time, stay safe and our love to all.

 

Candy xx