13-2016 Bora Bora and Raiatea

Hi from Clare,                                                             Monday 21^st November 2016

BACK TO CIVILISATION

All good things must come to an end and so it was with some sadness we left the beautiful and peaceful south east corner of Bora Bora. We had spent two wonderful weeks here enjoying the perfect water and beaches in company with our friends on four other boats. We managed to store our sarongs and dress appropriately for town shopping and dinner at Bloody Mary's before heading down to the finish line for the International Outrigger Canoe Race.

Beach scene on the motu nearby our anchorage

Bloody Mary'd dock

A THRILLING RACE

The three day race went from Huahine to Raiatea, then Raiatea to Tahaa and back to Raiatea and then the final day was Raiatea to Bora Bora. The six man canoes paddled between 40-50 kilometres each day and averaged around 7 knots. We saw the finish of the first race on the big screen TV at Bloody Mary's Restaurant and as the winners crossed the finish line they were fairly pumping. We thought we must have been watching the start of the race; what a terrific physical performance.

Here they come!

Finish line sights - look for the canoes guys!

And the drummers drummed

We couldn't take Eye Candy around to the finish line in Bora Bora as the water is too shallow and so we anchored with a number of other yachts in deeper water on the corner before the home stretch. What a spectacle with all the additional support and spectator power boats, helicopters and film crews. It was an avalanche of colour, noise and excitement barrelling towards us. The wake made by the numerous power boats had me running down below to ensure everything was secure. I wondered if the participants in the canoes wished they would all go away. The otherwise flat water within the lagoon was as turbulent as any choppy sea. We took the dinghy around to the finish line to see some of the celebrations. I believe there were around eighty canoes in the race and each one crossed the finish line to the triumphant beat of Polynesian drums. French Navy Officials, the Mayor and other dignitaries were present to acknowledge the achievement of the winners and indeed all the participants of this great event. We didn't stay for the party, instead we up anchored while we still had daylight and went around to the other side of the island. We enjoyed a sundowner and didn't spill a drop as we watched from afar the waters churn with the departure of the many spectator boats.

SEPARATE WAYS

We spent the next few days with our friends on 'Plastik Plankton', 'French Curve', 'Flying Cloud' and 'Esperanza' enjoying our last good snorkelling for the season in warm crystal clear water. Playtime was just about over as we all went our separate ways to whatever destination we had planned for the cyclone season. We arrived back in Raiatea on 8^th November and after checking that everything was on track for haulout on 24^th we decided to circumnavigate the island of Raiatea. We may as well have some pleasure while we scrub, clean and sort for the next two weeks.

OUR LAST ADVENTURE

The island of Raiatea is also very beautiful with mountainous peaks, winding inland waterways, waterfalls, lush tropical forests and some sandy beaches. We met an Aussie couple Liesl and Rob on their yacht 'Vivacia' and shared drinks and dinner with them. They asked how long we had been on our boat and when we answered 11 years their eyes nearly popped out of their heads. They had bought their boat in San Francisco two and a half months ago. I remember when we were new at it, the concept of someone being long term on a boat was amazing. I used to think “What can you possible do on a boat for that long, you must be bored stiff” However the time has passed quickly and we both still love being on the boat meeting new people and going to new places. We don't even mind the work of packing up and we have now learned to start early and mix it up with some playtime.

We took a trip in the dinghy up a river. It is shaded by large coconut palms, banana plants, breadfruit, mango and other native fruit trees. Creepers festoon off all the trees and the houses are well hidden in amongst the tropical growth. We passed a few farmers paddling canoes along the river, certainly a different lifestyle, it was like stepping back in time.

Up the river

With a paddle

There is a house in there, can you spot it?

A SACRED PLACE

We lured Tom and Silvia on 'Cinnabar' away from their packing up to visit Marae Taputapuatea which is the “father” of all the other sacred sites in Polynesia. It dates back to the 17^th century when ceremonies including human sacrifice and the immolation of children was conducted to appease the God of War. The site is very well preserved and beautifully restored including the cultivation of the traditional sacred trees. It is in a gorgeous location on the water's edge facing the Teavamoa Pass. For me, it is always a bit daunting standing on these alters contemplating what took place here in the 17^th century.

The sacred Banyan tree

One of the many Marae on the site

The bay we spent the last few days in has the added attraction of a small deserted island close by with two large mango trees laden with fruit. We have been across twice and collected enough mangoes to last us until we come home; how good is that?

SO WHAT'S NEXT

This time next week we will be winging our way home; what a lovely thought. We are eager to see everyone, especially the grandchildren with the new addition of Sarah (Andrew's daughter) and Brad's son Oscar Joseph.

Until then we still have the haulout, but everything is on track.

Love Candy xx 

12-2016 Beautiful Bora Bora

Hi from Clare,                                                         Saturday 29^th October 2016

FOR A FORTUNATE FEW

When last I wrote we were heading down the east coast of the Bora Bora lagoon. We came this way sixteen years ago and at that time there were a few expensive waterfront resorts on the east coast. Now there are numerous resorts with overwater bungalows stretching out like the branches of a tree across the azure waterway.

We anchored about half way down the island outside the St Regis Resort and met up with Austrian friends Cathy and Wolfgang on 'Plastik Plankton'. Cathy, who we found out later tries to get into all the resorts, suggested we all go into the St Regis Resort for an ice cream. We were met on the dock by the security guard and denied access as the resort is private. However Cathy wasn't taking no for an answer and so the security guard called the manager down to the dock and after some negotiation we were allowed entry. The manager escorted us to the bar area and we sat there for two very enjoyable hours. Our two banana splits and a small bottle of water cost A$48 but well worth it just for the experiencing. The resort is truly beautiful with three formal restaurants, exclusive shops, multiple swimming pools, one being for adults only, and rolling lawns down to a perfectly raked white sandy private beach front.

St Regis Resort, after they let us in

The on shore bungalows with traditional hatched roves are nestled under coconut palms in manicured gardens with winding pathways through a profusion of perfumed tropical plants and lighted walkways over lilly ponds with trickling waterfalls. It is a total attack on the senses in the nicest possible way. I'm not sure how much it cost to stay in one of these resorts but we have heard figures ranging from $850 to $1500 per night. We also heard from a cruising couple who dined at the St Regis Resort for the cost of $384.

HOW THE OTHER HALF LIVE

One morning, sitting on our boat in this idyllic settling, we watched some Polynesian men standing in thigh deep sea water, shovelling sand from the sea floor onto a barge. This sand goes to the resorts to maintain the artificial beach front. It looked like really hard work and the poor guys were at it all morning. The Polynesian people also collect and dry palm fronds. These are plaited and used as roofing in the building industry, we see the locals transporting boat loads of palm fronds every day.

Hard Yakka shovelling wet sand

OUR WORLD

We are now anchored in a beautiful spot in the south east corner of the island. There is a terrific drift snorkel here as well as a few other good snorkelling areas. The sea floor is thick sand with good holding. The water is so clear we can see our anchor thirty metres away from the stern of the yacht. The sea temperature is 29 degrees and the weather is lovely and sunny in the day and with a warm breeze at night. At this time of the year there are no mosquitoes, flies or bugs and so we can leave all the hatches open and let the breeze through the boat.

We are in company with 'Plastik Plankton' 'Flying Cloud' French Curve' and 'Winsome' so we have plenty of playmates. We tend to team up for our daily snorkelling or walking expedition and sometimes we gather for coffee or an evening drink.

The snorkelling

The place is heaven and the only upset is the annoying jet skis and motorised surfboards coming out of the resorts. The motorised surfboards are new to us and although they don't make as much wake as the jet skis, they are pretty noisy. Let's hope they are short lived.

Motorised surfboards! what next

Long beach

We needed to go into the nearby small township for some fresh fruit and vege and drop off some rubbish. So we tied to the wharf of the Intercontinental Resort only to be told we couldn't leave our dinghy there and we had to go to the public beach area some 10 metres away. Once there we found the beach front houses had Tabu signs up and we had no access to the street. So although the Intercontinental Resort wouldn't let us tie to their wharf we ended up carrying a week's supply of rubbish from four boats through the resort and out through the reception area. I guess they weren't impressed, but what else could we do. I think it would be fair to say that Bora Bora are not actively catering for the yachting community. Their focus is on the Resorts where employment is generated – fair enough.

Hotel Intercontinental - they did not want us there

Out for a beach walk

SO WHAT'S NEXT

We would love to stay here forever as this is a very beautiful anchorages. This morning Andrew and I went for a two hour walk along the beach. Up until now in French Polynesia we haven't found a beach long enough to walk for hours. However we will need to move back to the town soon for provisions. There is an International Outrigger Canoe race finishing here on 5^th November and so we will stay in Bora Bora for that before returning to Raiatea for haulout on 23^rd November.

Love Candy xx