10-2022 Arriving in Australia

Hi from Clare       10 -2022 Arriving in Australia                29^th October 2022

 

HOME AT LAST

Well dear friends, we arrived in Australia from New Caledonia a week ago. We had a very good six day trip mostly sailing on a broad reach in slight seas. We left Noumea on Saturday15th October knowing that we needed to arrive in Bundaberg by Friday night 21^st  before the forecast strong opposing winds and rain. As it turned out we arrived early Friday morning in plenty of time and with a nice yellow fin tuna caught on the last day. Our sailing friends Liam and Annie on Gone with the Wind arrived soon after.

FREEDOM & ADVENTURE

So this completes sixteen years of cruising overseas. We have travelled 49 thousand sea miles and visited 51 countries. What a wonderful experience seeing both the lifestyles from the very rich to the very poor. We have learnt a lot about other people and probably even more more about ourselves. It has been both a privilege and a humbling experience. Fortunately we were lucky enough over the years, to share many of our adventures with family and friends visiting Eye Candy for holidays. Our thanks to you all.

 

Andrew, Clare and Eye Candy

THE OFFICIALS

When first arriving we were directed to the quarantine dock. This is a locked area on the wharf where we stayed until Customs, Immigration and Bio Security Officials came to the boat. We were not allowed off the boat and no one was allowed onboard until we were finally cleared into Australia.

 

Liam, Annie and Andrew on the Quarantine Dock

All the Officials were very nice and very thorough. The Bio Security lady checked all food stuff being brought into the country and then she did an inspection of the boat for bugs. All wood on the boat was looked at carefully. She opened cupboards and lockers and even crawled around on the floor with a torch looking along the edges of the floorboards and in every nook and cranny. She found one little bug, sealed it in a plastic tube and took it away for analysis. She wasn't too concerned about it and described the bug as a hitch-hiker. Could have come on the boat yesterday, she said. We had cleaned and washed our vacuum cleaner, which she inspected. If there was dust in the vacuum cleaner she would have bagged it and taken it away. We were very impressed and glad to know that Bio Security is protecting our country against any unwanted bugs.

Since arriving we have had Eye Candy valued. Because Eye Candy has not been to Australia before we must import her and pay 10% GST and 5% Import Duty. This process takes about a week to 10 days to complete. Until then Eye Candy has to stay in the harbour of Bundaberg.

GOOD FRIENDS

Our arrival into Australia was enriched by our friends Colin and Denise flying up from Sydney to join in our celebration. Yes, it was patently clear by their smiling faces that we had arrived in Australia and not just another destination. We spent a few days together, popped a champagne cork and had a celebratory dinner. We even managed a trip to the Bundy Rum Distillery to stock up on their boutique liqueurs. We introduced Annie and Liam to Col and Denise and the six of us had a great night out to dinner exchanging sailing stories. We found we had a lot in common, not surprising.

 

Andrew, Colin, Denise at the Bundy Distillery

SO WHAT NEXT

We will slowly make our way south to Sydney. We hope to spend Christmas and New Year on Eye Candy on Sydney Harbour catching up with family and friends. As we have now completed our goal and arrived in Australia this is our last newsletter It is definitely time for me to Blog Off.  We hope you have enjoyed sharing our travels and thank you for keeping us company along the way.

So stay safe and our love to all.

Candy xx

 

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9-2022 Sailing New Caledonia

 

Hi from Clare,  9^th October 2022

We are thoroughly enjoying the sailing ground around Nouméa.

Generally speaking the wind drops out at night and picks up again mid morning. So we soon learnt how to use the weather pattern to get us to and from the many Islots within the lagoon. Once behind the Islot we get protection from the wind and the sea is flat because the lagoon is surrounded by reef. It’s just an easy place to sail and we have had some fabulous trips

Because of Andrew’s leg injury, we have needed to return to Nouméa twice a week for Doctor’s visits. We have made the most of our limited freedom by visiting nearly all the nearby Ilots. We have been in company with Aussie mates Liam and Annie on ‘Gone with the Wind’.

SOME OF THE HIGHLIGHTS

We spent a few days on Mbe Kowen Islot, what a beautiful quiet spot anchored in about 10 meters of clear water. We swam in the shallows and watched the kite surfers just out from the Islot. The daily routine was a few chores on board, walks on the beach, relaxation and drinks on shore at sunset.

MBE Kowen – Eye Candy 3^rd from the right

We sailed out to Isl Laregnere to join NZ friends Ted and Adrian on ‘Otama’ who commenced their passage to Australia the following morning. We had drinks on the beach and wished them fair winds. After a seven day trip, they are now relaxing in Gladstone.

Our Gathering – Andrew, Ted & Adrienne, Liam & Annie

BETTER NEWS

Back to the Doctor on 30^th September. He is happy with Andrew’s progress, although we would like it to be much faster. He gave me new instructions for dressing the wound and set us free for two weeks – thanks goodness.

COMPLETELY DIFFERENT SCENERY

So ‘Eye Candy’ and ‘Gone with the Wind’ sailed forty miles back to Prony Bay at the south end of New Caledonia. There is lots to explore here and some interesting characters to meet. We anchored in Carenage Bay which is a hurricane hole as there are hills all around, glassy water and gorgeous scenery.

View of Prony Bay – Eye Candy anchored to the right of the Bay

There are many bush walking tracks, fresh water rivers, cascades and a hot springs plunge pool.

Liam and Clare enjoying the warm pool

On one of our walks we met Gil a Frenchman who has leased some land in a remote area by the river for the last thirty years. He is a keen gardener and over the years he has planted trees and shrubs around his space. Nine years ago he moved in permanently. His lease is reviewed annually and if not renewed, Gil has two weeks to vacate and remove everything.

Gil and his Dog

This would be quite a feat as Gil has built a shack, a shed, a chicken house and pen. He also has a water tank with fresh water coming from the hill, a solar panel array, an outdoor area and Pizza oven, a car and a small tractor. He met us dressed in a sarong only and was quite a character. He is passionate about his country. When explaining the history he said it had been raped three times for wood, chrome and now nickel.

Gil’s shack in the windeness

PRONY TOWN

Old Prony town is quite interesting as in the last century it was a convict settlement. There is an old goal and some pretty graphic pictures and tales of punishment for misbehaving convicts. The settlement was there to log the timber. Today this pretty town is a base for a kayaking business and bush walking adventures.

One of the punishments – looks awful

OFF TO ANOTHER ISLAND

Our boats on the moorings

The gathering of Aussie’s and NZ’s cruisers

ON OUR WAY BACK TO NOUMÉA

We left Prony Bay Saturday and sailed with ‘Gone with the Wind’ back through the Woodin Passage towards Noumea. This is a narrow passage with a current running in and out with the tides. It’s important to get the timing right as wind against tide would not be pleasant. This is the fifth time we have sailed through here. The passage is five miles long in the narrow section. We whistled through there with a part jib only and 3,8 knots of current with us. It was like a sleigh ride, woo hoo!

HOW GOOD IS THIS

We met Christian yesterday, Andrew has been talking to him on a Radio Net for a few months and previously in 2019. He has just arrived in New Caledonia after sailing his yacht from New Zealand via Lord Howe Is. Christian in ninety years old, a keen spear fisherman and he is now our inspiration. He said “no use sitting at home on the couch complaining about aches and pains’ Wow!

WE ARE HERE NOW

View from Ouen Island – Eye Candy on the left

We are now anchored at the Island of Ouen some twenty miles from Nouméa. A lovely beach with an uninhabited resort, only a caretaker present. The weather is windy but we are OK here.

This place is so relaxing Andrew fell asleep on the beach.

We need to be back in Noumea on Wednesday for - you guessed it, another Dr’s appointment. We are also attending an information session on Thursday afternoon about checking in to Australia and importing the boat. After that we will be seriously looking for a weather window to cross to Australia. The trip should take us about six days, we will keep you informed of our departure date.

So until then stay safe and our love to all.

Candy xx

8-2022 Exploring New Caledonia

 

 

Hi from Clare,    8-2022 Exploring New Caledonia   16^th Sept. 2022

 

WHAT HAVE WE BEEN DOING?

We spent two weeks in Port Moselle Marina in Noumea, New Caledonia. We did not anticipate the damage to Andrew's leg, after his fishing mishap, would take so long to mend.  We thought when the final stitches came out on 2^nd September we would be free to leave.  But no, more trips to the Doctor until eventually I was taught how to treat and dress the wound and given enough dressings to last till next Monday 19^th September.  At this point we will return to the Doctor for appraisal.  In the meantime Andrew has to stay out of the water, which he is finding rather frustrating.

 

Andrew's leg, today

OUT AND ABOUT IN NOUMÉA

We hired a car, along with our Aussie mates Liam and Annie, and drove around Noumea calling in, of course, to all the Ship Chandlers and the large Carefour Supermarket for supplies.  The choice of things to buy is a massive step up from Vanuatu.  Noumea is a modern French City with lovely beach front apartments, restaurants, shops and with manicured parks and walkways.  We also noticed a vast difference between the Kanaks in Noumea and the N-Vans of Port Vila. The Kanaks in Noumea are less than half the population in a French protectorate where as the N-Vans in Vanuatu are the majority of the population in their own republic.

 Noumea's beach front

 

ESCAPE TO FREEDOM

We left the Marina on 9^th September and made our way down to Prony Bay which is about forty miles away on the southern end of New Caledonia. It was absolutely wonderful to be out on the water again enjoying the sunshine, fresh air and the tranquillity.  We were in company with Liam and Annie on Gone with the Wind.  Our destination was L'ile Des Pins which is a further forty miles south of Prony Bay and generally a sail into the wind.  We stayed one night in Prony Bay and took off early the following morning and motored in glass calm water to L'ile Des Pins. Motoring is not our preferred option but it is better than bashing into head winds.  We were glad to take this opportunity for a quiet trip.

Kuto Bay, L'ile Des Pins

 

BEAUTIFUL L'ILE DES PINS

The L'ile Des Pins is a very pretty island with plenty of Pine trees, as you might guess by the name.  We anchored in flat water in Kuto Bay and enjoyed four terrific days exploring the island.  Once again we hired a car and circumnavigated the island taking in the fresh market, the church, the 19^th century jail and convict cemetery, a wood carving shop and a very nice grotto.

The Church

The jail was fairly overgrown but it struck us that like Tasmania, this island would have been a perfect destination for a jail. Beautiful and all as it is, the island is a long way from anywhere and no chance of escape.

 The 19^th Century Jail

 

In the wood work shop the local men were busy carving totem poles with a hammer and chisel, These are proudly displayed at the resorts and businesses throughout the island.

 A local man at work

 The Kanaks on L'ile Des Pins are more friendly and relaxed than their city counterparts. French is their second language so it is a little difficult for us to have a conversation.  However it is interesting how much we seem to get across, then again we could be kidding ourselves :).

One of many totem poles

We had lunch at one of the resorts and caught up with emails etc.  We failed miserably trying to get across that we wanted a flat white coffee. We were served a short black, then a long black and then eventually a half warm flat white.  Sugar would have been nice, but..

 Lunch by the pool

 

The small market was a hoot, the sellers were focused on chattering and having a social day out.  Nobody was manning the store where we were trying to purchase some greens.  A great delay occurred whilst some hailing and a search for the store keeper ensued. Eventually she came scurrying out from the toilet, problem solved.

 

The highlight of the trip was the grotto. Deep in the tropical forest amongst a profusion of lush plants.  Many of these plants growing wild are only considered as indoor plants in Australia.  The grotto itself is a large cave with a statue of Mary, The Mother of God set up high.

 The Grotto

 

A truly lovely setting with stalactites in abundance and crystal clear water bubbling over rocks and a pebbly river bed.  Such a tranquil spot and it is always a treat to see lush greenery when sailing for months on blue oceans.

 A little river by the Grotto

 

CHAMPAGNE SAILING

We left L'ile Des Pins yesterday and had a great beam reach sail for 38 miles in 12 knots of breeze to Islet Ua. On the way we caught a large Mahi Mahi, this time without incident thank goodness. We have put away seven meals from this beauty. Good thing because our protein supply was down to 250 grams of mince beef.

Our Mahi Mahi

 

Islet Ua is a very small island with stunning scenery. Lovely thick white sand and clear water. We enjoyed drinks on the beach last night with Liam and Annie and watched the sun set, totally at peace with the world.

Islet Ua by day

 

Islet Ua at sunset

 

SO WHAT'S NEXT

We plan to have drinks on the beach again tonight,  We will go in early enough to walk around the islet at low tide.  We believe there is a big eagle's nest around the other side, so we will check that out.

 

Tomorrow we will continue on our journey back to Noumea for Andrew's next Doctor's appointment.  We are having a wonderful time and Noumea is a beautiful island. So until next time, stay safe and our love to all.

 

Candy xx

 

7-2022 Hello New Caledonia

Hi from Clare,     7-2022   Hello New Caledonia         29^th August 2022

CIVILIZATION

We are now located at Port Moselle marina in Noumea, New Caledonia and what a pleasure to be here. It is a glorious sunny day, the marina is very nice with good facilities and a popular restaurant.  The staff are most helpful and we have some Aussie company, Liam and Annie on Gone with the Wind.

 

Eye Candy in Port Moselle Marina

The Marina Restaurant

A PEACEFUL STOP

But first, some details on our sail to New Caledonia from Port Vila Vanuatu which commenced Saturday 20^st August.  We planned to sail 180 miles south on an easterly wind to the southern most island Aneityum, in the Vanuatu chain. From here, we would wait for the right conditions to continue on for 200 miles to Noumea, the capital of New Caledonia.  Our plans changed when the easterly wind, after eighty miles, swung around to a south east head wind.  We dropped anchor around 12.30am Sunday 21st August at the island of Erromango which is 80 miles south of Port Vila. We spent a peaceful time here waiting.  We did not go ashore as we had checked out of the country. Port Vila Customs gave us approval to stop and wait for favourable weather if necessary.

 

Peaceful  Erromango anchorage

WHAT A BLESSING

Our next 200 miles into Noumea started at 8pm Monday 22^nd August.  The first new hours was rough water but after the sea settled, we had champagne sailing all the way. We couldn't believe our luck as this leg has a bad reputation for headwinds and strong currents. Mother Nature gave us a break, we had gentle wind aft of the beam and mostly the current was with us – fantastic.

 

OUR LUCK RAN OUT

The only mishap for the trip came when Andrew ripped his leg on a latch in the cockpit when pulling in a Mahi Mahi.  He completely skun himself by pulling the flesh away from the muscle. He even had to poke a vein back under the flap. We cleaned the wound with antiseptic wash, applied antibiotic cream and bandaged the leg. We applied steri-strips but they did not hold the wound together. Fortunately, the wound did not bleed much and Andrew suffered no pain. We arrived into Noumea at 6pm Wednesday 24^th August, Andrew attended the Doctor the next morning and received stitches. He had to stay off the leg, as much as possible, for two days at which time we took the bandage off to let the wound breathe.  We are very happy with Andrew's progress. We walked into town yesterday and again this morning, no problems.  

Before stitching up

He will have the stitches removed progressively on Wednesday and then again on Friday. The mishap was bad enough, but it could have been a lot worse, we were very lucky to be close to our destination. After paying the Doctor's bill of $170 we consider the Mahi Mahi to be a most expensive fish.  I must add though, it was a very nice fish.

After Stitching 

GOOD FRIENDS - THE BEST TONIC

We are very much enjoying the company of Liam and Annie sharing drinks and meals and catching up. We first met in Turkey in 2005 and have sailed on and off together over the past seventeen years. There is a very comprehensive fruit, vegie and fish market close by and so last night we shared a sushi, salmon and prawn dinner accompanied by a bottle of champagne. The nearby patisserie is also a plus with warm baguettes, croissants, pastries and good coffee. Things are looking up, we couldn't buy anything like this in Vanuatu.

Noumea Town Square with Annie 

WE ARE OUT OF THE TROPICAL WEATHER

The weather is cooler here than Vanuatu. We are experiencing around 21 degrees each day and we have had rain on and off most days. We have even resorted to a blanket at night.  Yesterday we went for a walk around town. It was Sunday and all was quiet. On weekdays it is very busy and with lots of traffic. This morning we went to Chinatown so I could buy a long sleeve mid weight top and some long pants. The sleeves on the top I purchased were a mile too long, Fortunately the girl running the shop has a sewing machine ready for alterations. Fifteen minutes later the sleeves on my top fit perfectly, no extra charge. How good is that?

China Town, Noumea

SO WHAT'S NEXT

We will stay in Port Moselle marina until at least Friday, so Andrew can get his stitches out. Then we will start exploring some of the beautiful bays and surrounding islands. I thinks Gone with the Wind will push on to Australia soon. So we will have to make the most of their company over the next few days. So until next time stay safe and our love to all.

 

Candy xx

 

 

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6-2022 Goodbye to Port Vila Vanuatu

 

Hi from Clare,       6-2022 Goodbye to Port Vila Vanuatu         19^th August 2022

 

Since our last newsletter, we have been in and around Port Vila Harbour waiting for the right wind direction to sail to New Caledonia.

We have been busy getting ready but we managed to spend three lovely quiet days nearby Mele Island which is three and a half miles from Port Vila.  It has a private resort, plus a few very nice holiday apartments.    We walked the beach each day and celebrated Andrew's birthday at the Beach Bar. It was very calm at Mele we enjoyed the break.

 

We shared the sweets

SO WHAT'S NEXT

We will leave Port Vila tomorrow on the expected easterly wind and travel 180 miles to Aneityum, the southern most island in the Vanauatu chain. We will spend a day or two there and then sail to Noumea on a south east wind.

I will write again when in Noumea. Until then stay safe and our love to all.

 

Candy xx

 

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5-2022 Return Havana Bay, Vanuatu

Hi from Clare,      5-2022   Returning to Havana Bay Vanuatu         7th August 2022

A BIG SURPRISE

Before I talk about the trip, I want to tell you about the surprise we had when we went ashore for a walk. Just as I got out of the dinghy a sea snake came slithering out from under the fuel tank in the bottom of the dinghy. We have no idea how it managed to get into the dinghy and I'm only glad it didn't show itself during our trip to shore as this might have caused a bit of a panic on my part. Andrew hooked it out with a stick and threw it back in the ocean.

SO NOW FOR THE TRIP

For our journey south to Havana Bay on the island of Efate, we did three day sails. First was forty miles to Port Stanley on Malakula Island, then 38 miles to Port Sandwich on the south end of Malakula then 80 miles to Havana Bay on the main island of Efate.

The sail to Port Stanley was so calm I did the washing (including sheets and towels) hang them on the rails and got them dry before night fall. The highlight of the trip the following day to Port Sandwich was catching a Mahi Mahi.

Our Mahi Mahi

The next morning we left from Port Sandwich at 6am to do the 80 mile trip to Havana Harbour. We had up to 22 knots true wind, sailed at 60 degrees apparent in somewhat confused seas, Late afternoon we had a decent squall with very heavy rain. We arrived around 7pm in pitch dark but fortunately we had our tracks to follow, from when we left the bay 2 weeks earlier. We were pretty well done in by the time we dropped anchor. 

The only other boat in Port Havana is a sturdy 80 foot sailing ship built by the Polish owner who speaks limited English. He is sailing alone but has Polish friends arriving next Wednesday. We went over to say Hello or Dzien Dobry (good morning) which is the only Polish I know. He invited us onto the boat. He is very proud of his vessel, which is grand and very solid, Andrew said it would be worth millions. Our Polish friend's sailing experience would be totally different to ours, he can steer from inside in air conditioned comfort.

 

Sancta Anna -The Polish Boat

Our Polish friend was short of vegetables and so I gave him some bok choy, lettuce, tomatoes, cucumber, carrot, bananas and grapefruit. The next morning he came over to our boat with a freshly baked loaf of bread. Totally unexpected and thoroughly delicious.

 

The Bread

We have had a number of local boats come to Eye Candy for a chat or to deliver fruit and vegetables from their gardens. Others come wanting things, which we give them if we can. We had a family last night looking for bait to go fishing. We gave them our last piece of MahiMahi which was probably passed it's use by date for eating.

The people below rowed out to the Polish boat to meet the owner. They said they couldn't understand him, but together they did a lot of laughing. They then rowed passed our boat and Andrew offered them a tow back to shore. They accepted readily and laughed all the way to shore.

 

A Tow Ashore

We went across to Tasiriki Village on the far side of the bay. We were met on the beach by two villagers who gave us a tour of the village.

The welcoming committee

We walked to the school and met two of the six teaches. Friday is a half day and so all the kids were on their way home.

The Pre School

Many said hello, gave us high fives or shook our hands. Some of the little ones are very cute with big brown eyes, big smiles and fuzzy hair sticking out in all directions.

The Classrooms

The village is very neat and tidy and the houses are good quality. Many of the men from this village have been fruit picking in New Zealand. Some we met have been to NZ for seven seasons. It's quite a sacrifice being away from home for a six to nine month for picking season. They spend the money on education for the children and a better lifestyle for the family with a nice house and a boat with a 40 horse outboard.

The Church

View of the Village

Andrew has been busy today changing the bolts in the chain plates. This involves undoing all the rigging at the deck. He brought the new bolts back from Australia. The bolts he replaced weren't too bad but now we have brand new ones.

 Andrew at Work

SO WHAT'S NEXT

Tomorrow we will leave this peaceful bay and go around to the much busier Port Vila Harbour. From here we will start looking for a weather window to go to Noumea in New Caledonia. We have to leave Vanuatu by the end of August. We are hoping to find a light North East Wind to carry us down to New Cal. So until next time stay safe and our love to all.

 Candy xx

 

 

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4-2022 Espiritu Santo Island, Vanuatu

 

Hi from Clare,      4-2022 Espiritu Santo Island Vanuatu             29^th July 2022

 

So our next stop was the Blue Holes at Peterson Bay north of Santo's main town of Luganville. It certainly is a peaceful spot and it has two fresh water rivers to explore by way of dinghy, the Forest River and Nalaiafu River.

 

Entrance to Forest River

OUR RIVER RUN

Last time we were here in 2019 the village community at the mouth of the river was charging $5 to travel up the river by dinghy. However the 2022 tourist season is having a slow start after Covid shut down and there was no mention of a charge. We travelled up both the Forest and Nalaiafu Rivers. The rivers are peaceful and the bird life plentiful. Any stress you might be carrying just dissolves as you travel up the river, one with nature. It really is a magical place.

These blue holes are found in several places in Vanuatu. I think they are formed when a fresh water spring is filtered through limestone and the blue cast to it is from the dissolved calcium carbonate. It was a grey overcast day and so this time we did not go for a swim, however it was still nice just sitting in the river enjoying the quiet.

 

The Blue Hole on Nalaiafu River 

Unfortunately the forest is partly choked by a vine which was introduced during WW2 from south west of the United States. It was introduced to camouflage gun emplacements and war equipment should the Japanese every make it to Vanuatu. We think the vines would have been a very effective camouflage, but sadly, years later they are just choking the forest.

 Oh the vines!

 

At times the weed was almost covering the entire river and we had to pick our way through and clear weed from the dinghy's propeller.

 Weed on River

PORT OLRY

We stopped at Port Olry which is at the northern end of Espiritu Santo. The weather was very calm and so we had to motor the 25 miles to this beautiful bay.

Anchored at Port Olry

 

Warm, sunny and stunningly beautiful, we spent four days exploring this area and walking the beaches There is a small village close by with houses, a school and a few shops.

Typical Village House

The island we anchored off had a fresh water lake and so we had a swim in that too.

 

Fresh Water Lake

 

Our time in Port Olry was relaxing and very pleasant. For us, it is definitely one of the best spots in Espiritu Santo.

 

Yesterday we sailed back to Luganville in light wind. We re provisioned and stayed in the harbour off the township in preparation for leaving this morning. Last night, the wind dropped out and the current put us side on to the swell, so Eye Candy rolled all night, I didn't sleep well. This morning the weather was very unsettled and so we changed our plans and went back to our calm anchorage around the headland from Luganville. It is very still now and we have two Dugongs and a turtle swimming around the boat. So all is not lost

 Not looking so good today

SO WHAT'S NEXT

As soon as the weather suits, we will continue south to Port Vila. But for now we will just chill. So until next time stay safe and our love to all.

 

Candy xx

 

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