Hi
from Clare, Monday 21st
November 2016
BACK
TO CIVILISATION
All
good things must come to an end and so it was with some sadness we
left the beautiful and peaceful south east corner of Bora Bora. We
had spent two wonderful weeks here enjoying the perfect water and
beaches in company with our friends on four other boats. We managed
to store our sarongs and dress appropriately for town shopping and
dinner at Bloody Mary's before heading down to the finish line for
the International Outrigger Canoe Race.
Beach scene on the motu nearby our anchorage |
Bloody Mary'd dock |
The
three day race went from Huahine to Raiatea, then Raiatea to Tahaa
and back to Raiatea and then the final day was Raiatea to Bora Bora.
The six man canoes paddled between 40-50 kilometres each day and
averaged around 7 knots. We saw the finish of the first race on the
big screen TV at Bloody Mary's Restaurant and as the winners crossed
the finish line they were fairly pumping. We thought we must have
been watching the start of the race; what a terrific physical
performance.
Here they come! |
Finish line sights - look for the canoes guys! |
And the drummers drummed |
We
couldn't take Eye Candy around to the finish line in Bora Bora as the
water is too shallow and so we anchored with a number of other yachts
in deeper water on the corner before the home stretch. What a
spectacle with all the additional support and spectator power boats,
helicopters and film crews. It was an avalanche of colour, noise and
excitement barrelling towards us. The wake made by the numerous
power boats had me running down below to ensure everything was
secure. I wondered if the participants in the canoes wished they
would all go away. The otherwise flat water within the lagoon was as
turbulent as any choppy sea. We took the dinghy around to the finish
line to see some of the celebrations. I believe there were around
eighty canoes in the race and each one crossed the finish line to the
triumphant beat of Polynesian drums. French Navy Officials, the
Mayor and other dignitaries were present to acknowledge the
achievement of the winners and indeed all the participants of this
great event. We didn't stay for the party, instead we up anchored
while we still had daylight and went around to the other side of the
island. We enjoyed a sundowner and didn't spill a drop as we watched
from afar the waters churn with the departure of the many spectator
boats.
SEPARATE
WAYS
We
spent the next few days with our friends on 'Plastik Plankton',
'French Curve', 'Flying Cloud' and 'Esperanza' enjoying our last good
snorkelling for the season in warm crystal clear water. Playtime was
just about over as we all went our separate ways to whatever
destination we had planned for the cyclone season. We arrived back
in Raiatea on 8th
November and after checking that everything was on track for haulout
on 24th
we decided to circumnavigate the island of Raiatea. We may as well
have some pleasure while we scrub, clean and sort for the next two
weeks.
OUR
LAST ADVENTURE
The
island of Raiatea is also very beautiful with mountainous peaks,
winding inland waterways, waterfalls, lush tropical forests and some
sandy beaches. We met an Aussie couple Liesl and Rob on their yacht
'Vivacia' and shared drinks and dinner with them. They asked how
long we had been on our boat and when we answered 11 years their eyes
nearly popped out of their heads. They had bought their boat in San
Francisco two and a half months ago. I remember when we were new at
it, the concept of someone being long term on a boat was amazing. I
used to think “What can you possible do on a boat for that long,
you must be bored stiff” However the time has passed quickly and
we both still love being on the boat meeting new people and going to
new places. We don't even mind the work of packing up and we have
now learned to start early and mix it up with some playtime.
We
took a trip in the dinghy up a river. It is shaded by large coconut
palms, banana plants, breadfruit, mango and other native fruit trees.
Creepers festoon off all the trees and the houses are well hidden in
amongst the tropical growth. We passed a few farmers paddling canoes
along the river, certainly a different lifestyle, it was like
stepping back in time.
Up the river |
With a paddle |
There is a house in there, can you spot it? |
A
SACRED PLACE
We
lured Tom and Silvia on 'Cinnabar' away from their packing up to
visit Marae Taputapuatea which is the “father” of all the other
sacred sites in Polynesia. It dates back to the 17th
century when ceremonies including human sacrifice and the immolation
of children was conducted to appease the God of War. The site is
very well preserved and beautifully restored including the
cultivation of the traditional sacred trees. It is in a gorgeous
location on the water's edge facing the Teavamoa Pass. For me, it is
always a bit daunting standing on these alters contemplating what
took place here in the 17th
century.
The sacred Banyan tree |
One of the many Marae on the site |
The
bay we spent the last few days in has the added attraction of a small
deserted island close by with two large mango trees laden with fruit.
We have been across twice and collected enough mangoes to last us
until we come home; how good is that?
SO
WHAT'S NEXT
This
time next week we will be winging our way home; what a lovely
thought. We are eager to see everyone, especially the grandchildren
with the new addition of Sarah (Andrew's daughter) and Brad's son
Oscar Joseph.
Until
then we still have the haulout, but everything is on track.
Love
Candy xx