Hi
from Clare, Saturday 29th October 2016
When
last I wrote we were heading down the east coast of the
Bora Bora lagoon.
We came this way
sixteen years ago and at that time there were a few expensive
waterfront resorts on the east coast. Now there are numerous resorts
with overwater bungalows stretching out like the
branches of
a tree across the azure waterway.
We
anchored about half way down the island outside the St Regis Resort
and met up with Austrian
friends
Cathy and Wolfgang on 'Plastik Plankton'. Cathy,
who we found out later tries to get into all the resorts, suggested
we all go into the St Regis Resort
for an ice cream. We were met on the dock by the security guard and
denied access as the resort is private. However Cathy wasn't taking
no for an answer and so the security guard called the manager down to
the dock and after some negotiation we were allowed entry. The
manager escorted us to the bar area and we sat
there for two very enjoyable
hours. Our two banana splits and a small bottle of water cost A$48
but well worth it just for the experiencing. The resort is truly
beautiful with three formal restaurants, exclusive shops, multiple
swimming pools, one being for adults only, and rolling lawns down
to a perfectly raked white sandy private beach front.
 |
| St Regis Resort, after they let us in |
The
on shore bungalows with traditional hatched roves are nestled under
coconut palms in manicured gardens with winding pathways through a
profusion of perfumed tropical plants and lighted walkways over lilly
ponds with trickling waterfalls. It is a total attack on the senses
in the nicest possible way. I'm
not sure how much it cost to stay in one of these resorts
but we have heard figures ranging from $850 to $1500 per night. We
also heard from a cruising
couple who dined at the St
Regis Resort for the cost of
$384.
HOW
THE OTHER HALF LIVE
One
morning, sitting on our boat in this idyllic settling, we watched
some Polynesian men standing in thigh deep sea water, shovelling sand
from the sea floor onto a barge. This sand goes to the resorts to
maintain the artificial beach front. It looked like really hard work
and the poor guys were at it all morning. The Polynesian people also
collect and dry palm fronds.
These are plaited and used as
roofing in
the building industry, we see the locals transporting boat loads of
palm fronds
every day.
 |
| Hard Yakka shovelling wet sand |
OUR
WORLD
We
are now anchored in a beautiful spot in
the south east corner of the island. There is a terrific drift
snorkel here as well as a few other good snorkelling areas. The sea
floor is thick sand with good holding. The water is so clear we can
see our anchor thirty metres away
from the stern of the yacht.
The sea temperature is 29 degrees and the weather is lovely and
sunny in the day and with a warm breeze at night. At
this time of the year there
are no mosquitoes, flies or bugs and so we can leave all the hatches
open and let the breeze through the boat.
We
are in company with 'Plastik Plankton' 'Flying Cloud' French Curve'
and 'Winsome' so we have plenty of playmates. We tend to team up for
our
daily snorkelling
or walking expedition and sometimes we
gather
for coffee
or an
evening drink.
 |
| The snorkelling |
The
place is heaven and the only upset is the annoying jet skis and
motorised surfboards coming out of the resorts. The motorised
surfboards are new to us and although they don't make as much wake as
the jet skis, they are pretty noisy. Let's hope they are short
lived.
 |
| Motorised surfboards! what next |
 |
| Long beach |
We
needed to go into the nearby small township for some fresh fruit and
vege and drop off some rubbish. So we tied to the wharf of the
Intercontinental Resort only to be told we couldn't leave our dinghy
there and we had to go to the public beach area some 10 metres away.
Once there we found the beach front houses had Tabu signs up and we
had no access to the street. So although the Intercontinental Resort
wouldn't let us tie to their wharf we ended up carrying a week's
supply of rubbish from four boats through the resort and out through
the reception area. I guess they weren't impressed, but what else
could we do. I think it would be fair to say that Bora Bora are not
actively catering for the yachting community. Their focus is on the
Resorts where
employment is generated
– fair enough.
 |
| Hotel Intercontinental - they did not want us there |
 |
| Out for a beach walk |
SO
WHAT'S NEXT
We
would love to stay here forever as this is a very beautiful
anchorages. This morning Andrew and I went for a two hour walk along
the beach. Up until now in French Polynesia we haven't found a beach
long
enough to walk for hours. However we will need to move back to the
town soon for provisions. There is an International Outrigger Canoe
race finishing here on 5th
November and so we will stay in Bora Bora for that before returning
to Raiatea for haulout on 23rd
November.
Love
Candy xx
