Hi
from Clare 6-2019 Fun in the Yasawa Islands Fiji Monday 22nd July 2019
WE
FOUND THEM
So
we spent a few days in Manta-ray Bay in the Yasawa Islands Fiji
enjoying the calm anchorage with good snorkelling and yes we got to
see the elusive Mantas. It took three morning trips in the dinghy
before we found two manta-rays cruising back and forth feeding on
plankton. Some cruisers jump in the water and swim with them, but we
are content to just see these graceful creatures from afar, leaving
them in peace to feed.
The Manta Rays
TWO
WORLDS COLLIDE
Our
next stop was Octopus Bay as we wanted to have a look at the Octopus
Resort. However, being exposed to the southerly swell, we rolled
badly all night. The next morning we found a protected bay around the
headland and discovered that we could get to the resort via a walking
track over the saddle of the island. We anchored outside the small
village and went ashore to meet the people. There are four hundred
people living in the village and more than one hundred of them work
in the Octopus resort which is a twenty five minute walk over the
hill. Not the easiest walk to work, but you would definitely be fit
doing this twice a day on a regular basis. There is no lighting on
the walk and at 10 pm when the afternoon shift finishes, we could see
from the yacht the village people coming home making their way
through the bush using the light on their iphone to see the way. The
employment at the resort has a tremendous impact on traditional
village life. The people seem to hover between two worlds. Basic
village existence with few amenities or comforts with pig pens nearby
and chickens running everywhere, to working in an upmarket holiday
resort in a well laid out tropical paradise. We asked the village
people if life is better now, or before the Octopus Resort was
established, they all agreed it is better now. So after our walk
over the hill and the sixty nine steps down to the resort, we spent
some time at the bar. We caught up with the other cruisers from our
bay who were also enjoying the bar and the pool. Typical of
cruisers, we all found the most comfortable place to be:)
Andrew on the track to Octopus Resort |
View on the track from the top of the hill with Eye Candy |
We
then sailed for three hours into the wind to get to the Blue Lagoon.
We met up with our British friends John and Stella on Exocet Strike
and joined them with four of their friends for dinner in the Blue
Lagoon Resort Restaurant. It was a beautiful warm night and so we
dined outside enjoying good food, stimulating company whilst
listening to a very talented Fijian trio playing western music. It
was a treat to be waited on and lovely to have a break from meal
preparation.
Out to dinner, Blue Lagoon Resort |
They can smile and sing at the same time |
Last
time we were in Blue Lagoon it was very windy, but this time it was
flat calm, sunny blue sky and a light breeze. By this time we were
running out of fresh produce and there was absolutely nothing
available at the shop in the resort. I was very disappointed and
even a little distressed until one of the other cruisers said there
is plenty of fruit and vege. Just talk to the guy in the shop and he
will have it brought down from their organic farm. Well for goodness
sake, how about a sign in the shop saying fruit and vege available.
Anyhow I restocked with lettuce, tomatoes, celery, carrots, buck
choy, red capsicum, pineapple, papaya, bananas and limes - quite
pricey but perfect organic quality and we were glad to have it.
We
spent our days walking the beach and snorkelling the various spots.
One area is known as cabbage patch. It has a huge piece or coral
about 10 metres in diameter which looks just like a giant cabbage.
Unfortunately I didn’t get a photo as by this time I had given up
underwater photography due to bad visibility, maybe next time.
Clare enjoying the beach |
So
we are now about five miles north of Blue Lagoon anchored off the
village of Malataki.
We
are in company with Canadian friends Brett and Teresa on Seismic Wave
so we have someone to share our experience with. We went into the
village, met the chief, presented him with some Kava and did the
official Sevusevu welcome. Milly who is the grand daughter of the
chief was given the job of showing us around the village and looking
after us. The village of Malataki is very tidy with mowed lawns and
flowering shrubs, the houses are well maintained and nicely painted.
The chief, who has been chief for twenty four years, has a new house
replacing the last bure blown away in a cyclone. It is a traditional
Fijian design with a large airy room and hand woven mats on the
floor. A curtain at one end closes off the sleeping area. The
kitchen, as in all the other homes, is a separate building.
The Chief’s new house |
The
photo below is taken inside Milly’s mother house. As you can see
they have proper beds and the curtains are quite decorative. Milly’s
mum also has a twin tub washing machine powered by one of two
generators in the village and some drawers and cupboards for clothes
etc. They have pigs and chickens in the village, but they are well
out of sight. The only pig we saw was on a roasting pole.
Inside Milly’s mum’s house |
The
Methodist church is the most prominent building in the village and
religion is central to village life. We were invited to Sunday
church with lunch after. The service was in Fijian so we didn’t
understand much. Except we did understand that they read out
parishioner’s name and how much money they had donated to the
church – not pressure here. During the service the choir sang,
then all the men came forward and sang, followed by the women and
then the children sang. The children do not sit with their families
they all sit together up the front of the church. There is a man
with a long stick who keeps the kids in line. Any fidgeting child
gets a tap on the head, any slouching on the seat in front gets a
prod in the back. The man with the stick is very vigilant. However
he missed the kid in the photo below who was busy with the nail
clippers given the girl in the seat behind him a very thorough
pedicure.
The Holy pedicure |
The Church bell, Fijian style |
Church
is a big deal and all the villagers including the children were
dressed in their best. The men wore the tradition sulu (skirt) with
a shirt and tie and some with a suit jacket. The women mostly in
long dresses and the kids well groomed with boys as young as one year
old wearing the sulu and girls in pretty dresses. There are several
services throughout the day and on Monday the minister goes from
houses to house for prayer meetings.
The Methodist Church |
The kids assembling for the service |
We
went to Milly’s house for a lunch of fish soup, followed by fish
and crayfish. As quests we were given a knife, fork and serviette,
but the villagers eat with their hands and have a bowl to wash in
after the meal.
Milly
has three children under five years and her husband at present is
living-in at a resort working twenty one days straight and then has
eight days off back in the village. Every time we see Milly she is
busy breast feeding a rather chubby one year old. I asked her how
long in village life do you breast feed the children and she said for
one, two or three years. Now I’m doubly glad not to live in a
Fijian village:)
Village kids helping Andrew |
The youngest child has a very large knife |
SO
WHAT’S NEXT
We
will stay here for a few more days as this is a great bay with thick
sand all the way to the beach. The beach is great to walk on as the
sand is quite firm underfoot. The water is warm and there is some snorkelling to do. We will then make our way slowly down the island
chain back to Musket Cove.
Love
Candy xx