Hi
from Clare No 11 Fatu Hiva and Hiva Oa Saturday
11th
July 2015
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| Bay of Virgins - Fatu Hiva |
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| Hanavave township from above |
SIMPLY
THE BEST
Fatu
Hiva is probably the most beautiful anchorage we have ever been in.
The island is volcanic with towering mountains, lush vegetation and
stunning scenery. The population is around 600 and the two townships
are nestled in the valleys between the mountain ranges. When we first
arrived we were by ourselves but the following day an Aussie boat
Muneera with Nick, Andrea and their teenage daughters Ella and Milly
arrived after sailing from Galapagos. We spent the next few days
enjoying their company, exploring the town and hiking to the
waterfall.
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| Dancing for the Tourists |
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| Practice for Bastille Day |
DANCE
THE NIGHT AWAY
The
supply ship the Aranui 111 arrived from Tahiti depositing goods and
collecting local produce. It brought a number of tourists as well,
which gave the locals an opportunity to sell their craft goods and
perform traditional song and dance for them. The locals are also
practising for Bastille Day celebrations on 14th
July and so every night around 7pm the drums started. Children of all
ages danced enthusiastically, not the slightest bit embarrassed by
parents and onlookers or by cameras clicking. Unfortunately no flash
was allowed. The kids danced their hearts out for an hour before it
was time for the adults. I thought the kids would be exhausted but
no, they ran off and played soccer; no stopping them.
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| Waterfall |
CLIMB
EVERY MOUNTAIN
We
went with Nick, Andrea and girls to the waterfall. It was an hour
hike up hill and through some pretty dense scrub. The waterfall was
beautiful and Nick, Andrew and Milly enjoyed a swim before lunch and
a well earned rest before trekking back. The photo of me in among the greenery is not a rest break, it actually shows me descending the
mountain sliding on my behind which seemed the safest way to go.
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| Sliding down again |
A road less traveled
The
following day Andrew and I tackled the mountain. We walked four
kilometres up hill to 600 metres above sea level. It was a steady
climb on a good road and the scenic rewards spurred us on. There was
always just another bend a little further luring us on with the hope
of a spectacular panorama. We are not ashamed to say we didn't make
it to the top, we left some in reserve for the steep decent which was
even harder on the thighs than the ascent. We walked for three hours
and fully expected to be stiff the following day but mercifully we
were both fine.
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| Walking into Hanaiapa village |
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| Family Copra drying shed |
A
GARDENER'S DELIGHT
On
Tuesday we sailed 55 nautical miles to the island of Hiva Oa. We
didn't go to the main township but went around to the north side of
the island for better protection from the wind. We firstly stopped
in the Hanaiapa Bay which has a small town but no shops. The public
park area by the waterfront is well maintained as is the whole town.
Whipper snipers are used to keep he grass areas neatly trimmed. The
rock work, vigorously flowering plants and fruit trees along the
roadside and well maintained house gardens showcase this modest
township as a tropical paradise. Coconut palms are prolific and most
homes have sheds for drying coconuts as copra is the main export in
the Marquesas. We said good morning to a chap working in his garden
and when we came back down the road he gave us a large breadfruit.
These are delicious if cut finely and pan fried in a little oil. The
taste and consistency is a cross between bread and potato and they
fry quickly to a crunchy delight. One breadfruit will last us for
about a week.
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| John my fishing mate also tour driver |
COFFEE
PLUS
We
left Hanaiapa Bay and motored a few miles along the coast to Hanamenu
Bay. The homes here are holiday places but the little settlement is
well maintained with whipper snipers and much raking of leaves. We
met John a local chap who is known by the cruising community as he
speaks good English and conducts tours around the island for
tourists. John was raking up leaves at this holiday place when we
spoke to him. He invited us in for a cup of coffee and we sat and
chatted with him in his garden. The down side was we had forgotten
the bug spray and I ended up with 35 very large and itchy mosquito
bites, (Andrew had none, who can figure). The upside was John and
Andrew agreed to go fishing together that night. Andrew came home
after two hours with eight fish and so we now the menu includes red
snapper, mackerel, jack fish and breadfruit all provided by the
island; pretty cool. When we fetched our dinghy to go back to the
boat. A group of small boys came running down the beach to help. You
can see by the photo that it wasn't their first launch as they all
knew what to do, including the four year old with the bare bum, he
was very amusing. I was taking photos until one of the older boys
eagerly gesticulated for me to get in the boat so I wouldn't get wet.
I thought if this kid could only see me knee deep in water every time
we launch the dinghy, he wouldn't be so worried – they were great
kids.
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| Nippers in action |
This
morning we took the dinghy around the point to a lovely sandy beach
and sparkling aqua water for swimming. The daily temperature is in
the high twenties and the water temperature is 28.6 degrees, just perfect. We also had three or four manta-rays cruising around; they
are always a treat to see.
SO
WHAT'S NEXT
We
will stay here until Monday awaiting favourable winds to sail 80
miles back to the main island of Nuku Hiva in time for the Bastille
Day celebrations on Tuesday. In the meantime there is a Blessing of
the Fishing Fleet in this bay tonight. There is a small grotto to Our
Lady on the cliff face out on the point. We watched this morning from
the cockpit as the locals erected lighting along the steep and
winding track from the settlement to the point. Looks like we will
have front row seats tonight, so it should be good.
Love
Candy xx
