No 29 Boston, Massachusetts

Hi from Clare,                                          Tuesday 28th Augut 2012-08-29

 

Throughout the week we made our way to Boston stopping off at a number of anchorages along the way. I will mention two as they were the most interesting.

 

Squirrel Island

PLEASANT STOPS
The first one is Squirrel Island, interesting because it is privately owned and self managed by the residents. Our American friend Bert (Exuberance) said it is old money and the fifty or so properties never appear on the market; they are handed down through the generations. There are no cars and we circumnavigated the island by way of wooden boardwalks or made footpaths. We enjoyed the peace and tranquillity, the aroma of the pine forests and the chirping of many pretty birds. The few locals we meet were very welcoming and friendly and hoped that we would enjoy their island.

 

Jewel Island

 

Our second favourite anchorage was at Jewel Island. The bay was flat calm and surrounded by pine clad hills. We (Andrew and I, Bert and Prue) explored the walking tracks on this island for about two and half hours and climbed the WWII look out towers giving us a great view of the surrounding area; see photo.

A BUSINESS STOP
After many emails to sail makers in the past weeks, we stopped at Salem (20 miles from Boston) and ordered a new Main Sail and a new Genoa from Doyle Sails. After eight years and good service our old sails are showing signs of imminent failure. So far (we haven't got the sails yet) it has been a pleasure doing business with Doyle's.

OOPS
So we motored to Boston Massachusetts and arrived in thick fog. We couldn't see the shoreline when motoring up the channel. The passenger ferry to Provincetown had run aground with 150 passengers on board. No one was injured but there was a full scale evacuation being conducted. We followed the chatter on the VHF radio and when the fog cleared momentarily we could see numerous rescue vessels with flashing light heading out of the harbour. We heard later that it was operator error as the ferry was off course.

HISTORIC BOSTON
So we took a mooring ball for two nights. We were within a stone's throw of the Old City. The best way to experience the history of Boston is by following The Freedom Trail; a red line running through the city. This takes in 16 historical sites making up the backbone of the American Revolutionary Story.

 

Faneuil Hall & The State House

That afternoon we saw Faneuil Hall (1741) which served as an open forum meeting hall and market place for over 250 years. The gold domed State House (1713) where still today the Massachusetts senators, state representatives and the governor conduct daily business.

 

Granary Burying Ground & the Old State House

 

The Granary Burying Grounds (1660) where some of America's most notable citizens and revolutionaries rest. The Old State House (1713) which was the seat of British rule. Then finally the Old South Meeting House (1729) which is where the signal was given to throw 342 crates of tea into Boston Harbour. After that we retreated to a waterfront bar for a well earned refreshing drink and some people watching.

 

Old South Meeting House & Charles River to Harvard

 

UP A LAZY RIVER
Boston is very much a university town, there are lots of students everywhere and they come from all over the globe to gain a higher education. Both Harvard and MIT, amongst others, are located here. So the following morning we took our dinghies for a five mile trip up the Charles River to Harvard University. 

 

Harvard Residential Colleges & Gymnasium

 

 

Harvard Chapel & Library

 

What a beautiful establishment nestled under magnificent leafy foliage. Bert and Prue said that tuition for a degrees cost around $250,000 and that doesn't include boarding in at one of the many halls. It is the beginning of the University year and so there were many eager students (I hope) there receiving introductions.

MORE FREEDOM TRAIL
In the afternoon we continue on the Freedom Trail taking in the Paul Revere House (1676) which is the oldest frame house in Boston. Then to the Old North Church (1715) with its 217ft steeple making it the first landmark travellers saw when approaching Boston. We continued on through the lively Italian restaurant district where the food smelt delicious, the restaurants were full and people spilled out into the streets to celebrate St Anthony's day with cheering crowds and live bands.

 

Paul Revere House & Old North Church

 

Last but not least we then crossed the bridge to the Charlestown naval shipyards to see the USS Constitution which is the oldest commissioned warship afloat in the world. It became known as "Old Ironsides" during the War of 1812 as cannonballs merely bounced off her hull, which was made not of iron but a three-layer sandwich of oak.

 

USS Constition & her Gun Deck

 

The following morning we left Boston but not before I poured some tea into the harbour as my little act of rebellion.

 

View from our mooring ball & the Rebel

SO WHAT'S NEXT
We are now in Provincetown and heading for Newport tomorrow to restock supplies before heading out to Martha's Vineyard.

Love Candy xx.

At 12:32 AM28/08/2012 (utc) our position was 42°02.60'N 070°10.86'W

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No 28 Maine Part III

Hi from Clare,                                   Sunday 19th August 2012

CLIMB EVERY MOUNTAIN
Last Monday was a beautiful day and so we hiked to the top of Mount Dorr, Mount Desert Island, Maine. We went with Kurt and Katie (Interlude) and their friends Fred and Monica (Sagitta 11). It wasn't really a hike it was more like being in the gym on the stair master for a couple of hours. Apparently the stairway is the short cut up the steep incline to 1250 ft. Stairs are fine for the likes of long legged Kurt, Katie, Fred and Andrew. However I was at a distinct disadvantage at 5.2" and I would have had a grizzle expect Monica is shorter than me, five years older and scaled the cliff face like a mountain goat - what could I say?

 

Summit of Mt Dorr at last and the views

BUT NOT EVERY DAY
The following day Andrew and I took it easy with a bus trip around the coast. We got off at Sandy beach and walked the track to the next bus stop at Thunder Cave. As you can see by
the photos it is a very pretty walk and thankfully it was on the flat.

 

Sands Beach and the Ocean Track

NEW FRIENDS
That evening we had drinks with new friends Neville and Glenys on 'Alba' along with Mark and Julie on 'Rachel'. These guys are English and long time cruisers like us. We had a great night and although we all went our separate ways the following morning, I'm sure we will meet again.

TIME FOR A BREATHER
We moved across to the Cranberry Islands to catch up with American friends Bert and Prue (Exurberant). We had a couple of quiet days. Bert and Prue came over to Eye Candy for drinks the first night but on the second day it just poured rain. I did domestics while Andrew finished rubbing down the companion way and applying multiple coats of varnish. He still has a couple of steps to go but already it looks a million times better.

THE TURNING POINT
We don't intend travelling any further east along the coast of Maine. We have turned around and are now heading back to New York. All going well we should be back in New York by mid September and then Washington by mid October. So far this year we haven't had a hurricane come up the east coast of America. They have been forming out in the Atlantic and dissipating in the Caribbean; let's hope it stays that way.

 

Eye Candy in Pulpit Harbour and the Tribe gathers for sunset

MORE DRINKS
We sailed 35 miles to Pulpit Harbour. This is a very popular overnight stop in very peaceful surroundings. The harbor is well known for its beautiful sunsets. We had drinks with new American friends Rus and Lyn on 'Blue Highway' along with Interlude and Exuberance. Six Americans and two Aussie's - we were the quiet ones.

 

Bert and Prue from Exuberant and the Interlude team of Katie and Kurt

A NON ALCOHOLIC DRINK
Yesterday we sailed eight miles to Rockland in time to invite Stu and Steph (Matador) over for morning tea. We have been talking on the MagNet each morning but we haven't seen them for nearly two months. They are still heading east so it was only a quick hello. Stu and Andrew headed to the Ship's Chandlers in search of an equivalent to 10mm anchor chain. They didn't have any luck, we might have to wait until we get to the French Caribbean Islands where metric is available. In the meantime our anchor chain is very rusty and we get splattered with muck when pulling it up.
Last night we went out to dinner for Andrew's birthday. Bert and Prue (Exuberant) came with us. The food was delicious and we had a lovely night.

SO WHAT'S NEXT?
The main event for the coming week will be visiting Boston. Just as sailing past the Statue of Liberty was one of my goals, so too is empting my tea leaves into Boston Harbour - I'm planning my own party!

Love Candy xx
L

At 8:08 PM18/08/2012 (utc) our position was 44°05.89'N 069°05.80'W

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