North East Sardinia

Morning Tea on "Gone with the Wind"

Helicopter & 40' yacht Porto Cervo marina

Costa Smerelda Yacht Club

Porto Cervo plaza

"Eye Candy" having a rest

Sardinia Bay Holiday Village

Hi from Clare, North East Sardinia Sunday 11th July 2009 On Monday morning we parted company with "White Rose". They traveled north while we enjoyed some quiet time and the company of other cruising buddies in the anchorages of Isola Porri and Golfo Di Marinella.

FIRST SIGHT OF PORTO CERVO When I last wrote we were heading to the Costa Smerelda area, a playground for the rich and famous. "Eye Candy", "Balvenie" and "Gone with the Wind" arrived there Wednesday afternoon. The three yachts firstly went into the tiny harbour of Porto Cervo in the hope of anchoring off the marina. However there were a dozen yachts at anchor and eight empty mooring buoys available at the cost of 175 euros per day (no wonder they were empty). So the three of us did a quick circle of the harbour and then anchored in the next bay along with some very expensive boats.

HOW BIG IS 'BIG' The biggest power boat there was 358 feet long, five stories high and had six metres of draft. A panel folded down from the side of the boat to form a platform just above water level. This then became an outdoor eating area fitted out with grass, tables and chairs, large umbrellas, stainless steel guard rails and a double sliding glass door into the boat. The platform was adjoining a lower deck eating area and bar facility. That was all we could see of the inside, but it was enough to get the picture. As we sailed past, we counted twenty crew cleaning, polishing, setting up facilities, launching jet skies and other toys.

There were plenty of other big power boats there too, all very expensive with staff waiting hand and foot on the owners and guests. The tenders for these boats are about 40 feet long (the size of Eye Candy). They speed into the anchorage as forward scouts. If the anchorage suits, they disappear and then return shortly with their mother ship.

Photo two shows a 285 foot power boat with a helicopter on the back deck and a 40 foot yacht (the size of Eye Candy) on the side deck. We couldn't help but wonder if they ever put the yacht into the water?

BIG MONEY BUT NOT PRETENTIOUS Early the following morning the six of us went into Porto Cervo on "Eye Candy" and anchored off the marina. We marveled at the sheer opulence of some of the boats in the marina. We then recovered with a morning shot of coffee, a stroll around the shops and a leisurely lunch in the marina village. The shops weren't that expensive considering the location. A number of Porto Cervo T-shirts were purchased as souvenirs, lunch was reasonably priced and the supermarket prices were pretty normal for Sardinia. There has been a lot of money spent in the area but Porto Cervo has a lovely feel to it. The residents just go about their business and everyone we spoke to was very pleasant.

However the marina prices are pretty hefty. The price for "Eye Candy" for one night in the marina is 294 Euro ($440). The highest price on the list was for a boat over 55 metres at 2,573 Euro ($3860) per night. There was space in the marina and plenty of boats anchored in the next bay, no surprise!

FLAT WATER AGAIN While in Porto Cervo we ran into Bridget and Peter who had taken the bus into town from Golfo di Arzachena. We all decided to join them in Arzachena as they reported that at the southern end of the golf there was a nice little town, somewhere to watch the World Cup and flat sea conditions away from the power boats. Andrew and I (not being keen on soccer) anchored at the northern end of the bay in much cleaner water. We went ashore after dinner and found a lovely tourist village at Sardinia Bay. It was very up market with first class accommodation, shops, bars and restaurants. Once again it was crowded with well dressed Italians enjoying the night life of the Mediterranean. The north east coast of Sardinia is a wonderful place. It's clean, well maintained, very good housing and facilities, well frequented sandy beaches and a wonderful climate. The people seem well off, relaxed and friendly and as Andrew said "If you lived here, why would you move?"

SOON ONTO CORSICA We left Arzachena yesterday and sailed up past the Maddalena Islands to Porto Liscia which is at the top of Sardinia. We can see Corsica which is only about ten miles away.

Last night we had "White Rose" with us on "Eye Candy" to share dinner and a very pleasant evening together. We are spending so much time together at present that when Andrew is over on White Rose chatting, Peter answers the radio identifying the vessel as "White Candy"

After Corsica we will part company as "White Rose" will head for Majorca and then the Atlantic. We can only hope to meet them in the Caribbean sometime in the future.

SO WHAT NEXT Tomorrow we will head to Porto Vecchio on the SE coast of Corsica. We are hoping to see some festivities for Bastille Day on the 14th and catch a bus to town of Bonifacio. We have heard that it is well worth seeing and very difficult to find anchorage room there.

We will also have to buy a French sim card for the dongle. So if we are off the air for a short time, just be patient, while we find the best deal.

Love Candy xx

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Arriving in Sardinia

Peaceful anchorage in Sardinia Annie, Bridget, Amanda and Clare

Streetscape in Olbia

Peach of unknown name

Mark, Peter, Liam & Andrew

at the Football

Temporary outdoor Restaurant

Isola Tavolara

(end view)

Hi from Clare Arriving in Sardinia Sunday 4th July 2010 THE PROMISED LAND We left Ponza Monday morning along with the sailing yachts "Gone with the Wind" and "Balvenie" to sail to Sardinia. The 150 mile trip took thirty hours to complete. We motored for twelve hours until the wind kicked picked up. We then had a good sail to Porto Brandinchi on the N/E coast of Sardinia arriving midday Tuesday 29th June.

We felt as though we had arrived in the promised land; blue sky, white clouds, daily temperature in the low thirties, crystal clear 27 degree water and flat calm conditions. You could just about hear everyone sighing with pleasure as they dropped their anchor. It was so good, we stayed for three nights.

The first night we got together on "Eye Candy" for sundowners. This gave us a chance to reminisce on the highlights of the trip across. However, there was no mention of the unofficial race that occurs when any three boats are going in the same direction. Suffice to say "Eye Candy" performed very well.

On day two Bridget and Peter on "White Rose" returned from their trip to Rome and joined us in the anchorage. We dined on "Gone with the Wind" that evening. The girls got together and provided dinner for eight. Bridget, who suffers sea sickness, spent some time during their trip with her head in a bucket, so we guessed a night off from cooking wouldn't do her any harm. The plan worked, by 10pm she was looking pretty relaxed, along with the rest of us! On night three we had drinks on the beech before returning to our own boats for a quite one. Our daytime hours were spent catching up with boat chores and relaxing onboard; Andrew in the hammock on the foredeck, Clare asleep in the cockpit. I think an indication of how relaxed we were in this peaceful anchorage was reflected by the fact that no one ventured ashore for exercise. OLBIA AND THE SUPERMARKET Friday 2nd July fully recovered, we re-entered the land of the living and motored 12 miles around to the township of Olbia for fresh supplies and the World Cup Football. Olbia is the main port for bringing commence and tourists into Sardinia. After negotiating the channel and a number of large ferries, we managed to get a spot on the town wharf. We were rafted with "White Rose" whilst "Balvenie" and "Gone with the Wind" were also rafted together. Some others yachts were triple decked and to think that this is the beginning of the busy season; I can't imagine what August will bring. For the cruising fraternity, sad as this might sound, one of the highlights of Olbia is the modern supermarket within easy walking distance of the wharf. What a bonus to be able to get everything you need without wearing yourself out in the process. I'm sipping a glass of Vino da Tavola as I type. It is an Italian luncheon white wine purchased locally at the agreeable price of 99 Euro cents a litre, it's bound to become a staple. The other little treasure discovered is the local flat peach, as shown in photo number four. When first sighted I thought there was something wrong with them. They look as though they have been sat on, but they are sweet, firm and juicy with a small core; absolutely delicious. FOOTBALL AND A BEERA Most of the bars and outdoor restaurants are showing the World Cup Football. The town centre is frequented day and night with people watching the football. Some restaurants try to draw the crowd by telecasting the football. It appears to work, because by mid game it is standing room only. Of course, when in Italy, you don't have to be watching the football to know when Italy kicks a goal. The roar goes up and car horns are beeping. I'm not a football fan but the atmosphere is very contagious. WARM NIGHTS, NO BUGS We have observed in Sicily, the west coast of Italy and now in Sardinia that the town centers come alive at night. In the Mediterranean, the evening is such a lovely time of day. It has a gentle warm breeze, no biting insects, affordable outdoor restaurants and in Olbia, vibrant street markets and entertainers. Photo six shows Andrew standing behind a tree that, come night, is the centre piece for a temporary restaurant. The tables are arranged under the canopy of branches and the restaurant comes alive with starched white cloths, flowers and candles on the tables, attentive waiters, fairy lights in the tree and the aroma of fine cuisine. It is the most delightful setting for the adults to have dinner while the children play in the plaza. This community atmosphere is what I will remember of the Mediterranean night life. Come daylight the tables are pushed aside and the plaza reverts back to being the hub of the business district. OUR OWN OUTDOOR RESTAURANT By Saturday lunchtime we were ready to escape to an anchorage. "Eye Candy" and "White Rose" are now settled at the base of the impressive rock shown in photo number seven. It is eight miles from the town of Olbia and it is only one on the many anchorages in the area. Last night we had drinks on the beach and then Bridget and Peter cooked a wonderful dinner on "White Rose" for the four of us. The evening was right up there in memorable Mediterranean nights. THE DONGLE HAS CHANGED OUR WORLD We now have internet access on the boat so we are in contact with the world. But more importantly can call family and friends on Skype on their computer or home phones. It was quite a thrill talking with family today, whilst sitting here at the base of our big rock in Sardinia. So a big thank you to our Aussie friend Colin for getting us started. SO WHAT'S NEXT We will be heading north to Costa Smerelda which is a playground for the rich and famous. So we will have to dress up and see if we fit in with the crowd. Love CANDY xx radio email processed by SailMail for information see: http://www.sailmail.com/